This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength.Īutotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification)īest Belay Device – How Important is the Autotuber?.Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm.Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm.Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm.
Range of application Reverso 4 of the manufacturer Petzlĭatasheet Reverso 4 of the manufacturer Petzl For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes.
If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice.
The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. A long service life and functionality are convincing. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. The market is large and the offer is even larger. Black Diamond ATC GuideĮspecially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope.Īs a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. Here is an overview table of the most important features:Īlpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbingĪlpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbingĪ good belay device convinces by its blocking support. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. Before we go into the details here is the summary: We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. Which is the better belay device? We compare the ATC Guide*of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4*of the manufacturer Petzl.
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